Steak frites is a classic, and the dish is just as elegant when made with wild duck. Ipluck duck breastsevery chance I get, but if you’re not one to keep the skin, the Stilton-chive compound butter will make up for any lack of richness and flavor. You could use any blue cheese you like for this recipe, but I’m partial to Stilton for its distinct saltiness, creaminess, and subtle, pleasant funk. Thankfully, this recipe makes extra compound butter, because it’s delicious spread over hot bread.

Although a bit more time-consuming to prepare, homemade French fries beat frozen fries every time. Also, steak frites isn’t steak frites if you’re using the store-bought stuff. Serve duck breasts French bistro style by making the French fries yourself—there’s a charm to the slight greasiness, uneven cuts, and mottled browning.

This recipe was written forwild mallard breasts. If cooking domestic duck breasts or wild goose, you will have to finish the breasts in the oven as they are much larger than mallard breasts and will take longer to cook. To do this, brown the breasts as outlined in step four, then transfer them to a cookie sheet and finish cooking in an oven preheated to 300°. Cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the breasts.

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1. Two hours prior to cooking, take duck breasts out of the refrigerator to come up to room temperature. In a small food processor, whip softened butter, Stilton, and chives together until evenly blended. Scrape out the compound butter onto a sheet of plastic wrap and roll into a log. Twist the ends close and chill in the fridge.

2. Prepare a large bowl with ice water. Peel potatoes and cut into shoestring-size sticks, immediately adding them to the ice water as you work to prevent discoloring. Allow the fries to soak for 30 minutes in ice bath. Then drain potatoes and spread out onto a large cookie sheet lined with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and dab dry.

3. Heat frying oil to 300°F. Blanch fries in batches until soft and slightly golden at the edges, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and set blanched fries aside to drain.

4. If duck breasts have the skin intact, lightly score it and season duck with kosher salt. In a skillet, heat duck fat over medium-high heat. Add duck skin side down and cook for three minutes, or until browned. Then cook on the other side for an additional 3 minutes, or so. Turn duck on their sides and cook an additional minute for color. Shoot for an internal temperature of 135 to 137°F for medium doneness, or cooler if you prefer waterfowl on the rarer side. Set duck aside to rest on a plate loosely tented with foil.

5. Heat frying oil to 375°F and fry French fries for a second time until fully golden and crispy. Do not crowd the pan, and fry in batches. Immediately season each batch with fine sea salt after they come out of the hot oil. Serve duck with finishing salt, a pat of the Stilton-chive compound butter, and hot French fries.