This recipe comes from the “Fall” chapter of our newest book release—Wild + Whole: Seasonal Recipes for the Conscious Cook by Danielle Prewett. To preorder a copy of the book,click here.

When I was learning how to process deer, I did it all by trial and error. I looked at a lot of butchering diagrams, but most of the muscles on a hindquarter were simply labeled as “roasts,” and I wasn’t sure what that meant exactly. Is it a noun, or a verb, or does it imply both? It’s a vague term commonly used to describe a large cut of meat, and what makes it more confusing is that not all roasts should be cooked the same way. Some are best braised, but what if you want that rosy-red meat? I developed this recipe for anyone who wants to successfully “roast their roast,” so it turns out similar to a juicy, meaty beef prime rib.

If you’re concerned that you don’t have the cooking chops to serve something like this, don’t worry—this recipe is practically foolproof! Use a cut that’s very tender and shaped in a way that ensures it will cook evenly. In fact, there are only two cuts I would use for this recipe: the inside round and the sirloin tip.

The sirloin tip is a football-shaped muscle in a deer’s hindquarter that serves a similar function as the quadriceps in your thigh. It sits above the kneecap and has to be carved off the femur. Technically, it’s composed of three small muscles; don’t try to separate these muscles to take out the two pieces of silver skin that divide them. This silver skin holds the roast together, and there’s a good deal of fat and flavor worth saving between it and the meat. (But do go ahead and trim the silver skin on the outside.)

Also works with

Shop

1. To make the mushroom rub, pulse the dried mushrooms in a spice grinder, working in batches, until you reach a coarse powder. Transfer to an airtight container, stir in the salt, rosemary, and pepper, and cover. Store in a cool, dark spot for up to a year.
2. Remove the meat from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 225°F on the convection setting (if you don’t have convection, preheat to 250°F).
3. Trim off the thin layer of silver skin that covers the top and outside of the meat. Reserve the trimmings for making the jus. Use kitchen twine to truss the roast so that it will cook evenly.
4. Heat a large skillet over very high heat, then add 1 to 2 tablespoons beef tallow. When the tallow is hot, generously rub the meat all over with mushroom rub and sear it until just golden brown on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer the meat to a baking sheet lined with a wire rack (set the skillet aside). Drizzle the top with some tallow and stick an oven-safe meat thermometer into the meat at its thickest point. Roast for 1 to 2 hours, depending on how thick the meat is, until the temperature registers at 125°F for medium rare (carryover heat will continue cooking the meat as it rests).
5. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the reserved meat trimmings, stock, garlic, thyme, and gelatin (if using). Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle bubble. Simmer until the liquid has reduced to 1 cup, about 20 minutes. Strain and set aside.
6. When the meat has reached the desired temperature, remove it from the oven and transfer to a cutting board to rest. Set the skillet in which you browned the meat over medium-high heat. Pour in the Worcestershire, wine, and reduced stock and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes to burn off the alcohol, then remove from the heat. Taste and season the jus with a few teaspoons of the mushroom rub, or to taste.
7. Slice the venison roast into ½- to 1-inch-thick slices or into very thin slices for French dip sandwiches. Serve with the hot jus.