Chowder is the perfect winter comfort food. But I might be biased; I grew up on Cape Cod, and my grandmother’s clam chowder is legendary. Living in northwest Montana, there aren’t too many options for fresh shellfish. Luckily, we have plenty ofpike.

A day on the ice with not quite enough success to justify a fish fry gave me the idea to make a fish stock as a way to stretch a small amount of fish into a full meal. The combination ofelk chorizo, creamy chowder, and fresh avocado crema creates a meal that is rich, hearty, and bright all at the same time.

This recipe relies on a light but heartyfish stock, or “fumet” as the base. It’s a much more delicate (and thankfully is a quicker preparation) than a meat or bone stock. It does require some care.

Blood and gills will turn it bitter, so anything red must be removed. I cut the gills out and soaked the carcasses for an hour in cold water before scrubbing and rinsing to remove as much blood from the bones as I could. A gentle 20- to 40-minute simmer is all that’s needed here to extract the gelatin and create a nice flavor—much longer, and it starts to get muddy and off-tasting. They key to a good fish stock is to never let it boil. I like to keep it somewhere between steeping and simmering.

The stock can be made a few days ahead of time and refrigerated until it’s time to make the chowder. It can also be canned or frozen and reserved until needed.

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1. Begin by making the stock. Cut all the gills away, and clean as much blood off as possible. Soak in a large bowl with cold water for an hour. Scrape away as much blood from the spine and rib bones as possible. A butterknife helps with this.
2. In a stock pot, heat up the butter over medium heat and gently sweat the onions, leeks, and garlic until translucent. Pour in the wine and allow to cook down for a few minutes. Then, add the fish parts, water, herbs, and peppercorns. Bring to a gentle simmer and let it cook for 20-40 minutes. Once done, cool, strain, and set aside.
3. Next, make the avocado crema by adding all ingredients to a food processor, and blending until mixed thoroughly. Set aside until ready to serve.
4. If you’d like to make the optional garnish, coat radishes in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a sheet pan and broil until they start to blister. Then, mix the oil and chopped cilantro together in a bowl. Set both aside until ready to serve.
5. To make the chowder, begin by heating up a stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add chorizo and sauté until browned and crispy at the edges. Remove and set aside.
6. Reduce heat to medium, and in the oil left over from the chorizo, gently sauté the onion, leeks, and celery until tender and translucent. Then, add the potatoes, cooked chorizo, and fish stock. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15-20 minutes.
7. Once the potatoes are tender, add in the pike and gently poach until white and flaky, about 5 minutes.
8. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, warm up the cream. It doesn’t need to be hot, just warm enough to prevent curdling once you add it to the soup.
9. Turn off the heat to the chowder, and stir in the warmed cream add salt and pepper to taste and serve. Garnish with a dollop of the crema, broiled radishes, and a drizzle of olive oil and cilantro mixture.