The best chilaquiles I’ve ever had was at a small Mexican spot in Ridgewood, Queens, NY. I loved it so much I went three days in a row. Everything about the dish was perfection: rich, full of braised goat in a dark red sauce, and the fried tortillas still had just the right amount of texture. Paired with an ice-cold beer, I couldn't think of a better brunch after a long night with friends.

Chilaquiles is a classic Mexican breakfast dish. The version I've made is my take on chilaquiles rojas and includes wild duck braised in the sauce. It really is a simple dish and nearly everything can be made in advance. Traditionally, corn tortillas are lightly fried and simmered in the sauce, but you can easily substitute a sturdy tortilla chip, as I've done for this recipe.

Go nuts with the toppings. I prefer to add a couple of fried eggs, lime wedges, cilantro, thinly sliced radish, crumbled queso fresco, Mexican crema, and my hot sauce of the moment. You could also add fresh avocado, white onion, or even refried beans. The sky is the limit with chilaquiles as long as you enjoy the final product. Even a can of enchilada sauce and leftover pulled meat would do the trick.

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1. Toast the chilis in an oven at 400°F for 10 to 15 minutes or until they are dark and crispy. Remove the stems and seeds and set the chilis aside.
2. In a dutch oven on high heat, add two tablespoons of the cooking oil. Season the duck with salt. Once the oil begins to smoke, sear the duck until nicely browned.
3. Remove the duck and immediately add the remaining two tablespoons of oil, onion, and garlic. Reduce the heat to medium. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the onion begins to caramelize. Now add the tomato paste, chipotle peppers, chili powder, and cumin. Stir to combine. Deglaze the pan with the vinegar. Lastly, add two cups of stock, the tomato, sugar, duck, and toasted chilis. Season with salt to taste. Bring everything to a simmer. Cover and place in a 325°F oven to braise for 1½ to 2 hours or until the duck is pull-apart tender.
4. Remove the duck from the braising sauce and pull the meat. Set the meat aside for later. Buzz the sauce in a blender or food processor with the remaining cup of game stock until smooth.
5. In a large skillet over medium-low heat, add half of the sauce and half of the meat. There will be enough to cook the dish twice. Each pan will serve two people. Bring the sauce to a simmer and add enough tortilla chips to fill the pan. The chips should be lightly covered in the sauce but not swimming. Simmer the chips for 2 to 3 minutes. You want the chips to have texture but not a hard crunch.
6. Serve immediately with the accompaniments and garnishes. Chilaquiles are best served straight from the pan.