Softshell blue crabs are one of the only ingredients that physically make my mouth water. They’re a perfect food in my book—sweet crab meat held together with a soft, thin, edible shell. They’re kind of like chicken wings in some regards, the perfect balance of crispy exterior to tender, delicate meat. If you’re into crab meat and crispy stuff, fried softshells are something you have to try.

While this ephemeral ingredient is great cooked in just about any high-heat application, it’s hard to beat a classic deep-fried Chesapeake Bay softshell sandwich. You can find softshells in seafood markets in the late spring through the early part of summer, but you can also catch your own by working pilings and docks with a dip net. As much as I take pride in procuring my own food, I’ve never caught enough softshells in an outing to satisfy my lust for these things.

I buy most of my softshells directly from watermen with peeler tanks. Getting them directly from the source ensures that they’re fresh, alive, and in prime condition. The larger the crab, the more expensive it is. “Jumbos” and “whales” command the highest price, but the smaller “primes” and “hotels” are usually cheaper, and in my opinion, have a better ratio of meat to crunch. I like to try to get the smallest ones I can find. Also, bring paper money when procuring soft crabs; cash is king at these establishments.

The devil is in the details with this sandwich. A fried soft shell crab is almost always great, but there are a few key points that can make it exceptional.

First, the batter. I prefer to use a really thin beer batter, similar to a tempura, with softshells. A 50:50 mix of flour and corn starch makes this coating crispy and flakey. Thick batters mask the exterior texture of the crab and will trap in moisture, making the shell soggy faster than a thin batter.

Second, the frying oil. You want it hot and you need to work in batches to keep the temperature high. I prefer to fry softshells (and most seafood) in beef tallow—it’s got a high smoke point and it’s the tastiest fat to fry protein in.

Last, use a rolling pin to lightly roll out the crabs (after cleaning them) before seasoning and battering. This breaks up some of the structure, but also pushes out some of the water in the meat. This will lead to less splattering in the frying oil and a crispier crab.

The rest of the sandwich is minimal. A little Old Bay mayo (JO is fine too), lettuce, tomato and a light bun. The crabs are the star of the show, so you don’t gain anything by overwhelming the sandwich with fixins.